How to install laminate flooring
Step 1: Acclimate the flooring.
Flooring should sit in the room for at least 48 hours prior to
installation, giving it time to expand or contract in relation to the room's
temperature and humidity. This prevents buckling and other problems after
installation.
Step 2: Remove existing baseboard molding.
Use the pry bar to remove baseboard from the wall and set the pieces aside for reinstallation. Floating laminate planks (the kind used in this project) should be installed over a hard, smooth surface, such as vinyl. Remove damaged flooring to reveal the subfloor.
Step 3: Install the underlayment.
Clear the floor of staples, nails, and other debris. Roll out the
underlayment. Do not overlap adjoining strips. Use the utility knife to cut
pieces as needed. The foam underlayment deadens sound and helps the floor feel
more resilient.
Step 4: Plan the layout.
To decide which direction to lay the planks, consider which wall
is the longest and straightest. Avoid a narrow strip against the focal-point
wall. Planks in the last row should be at least 2 inches wide. Figure on a
1/4-inch gap at each wall. Note it: If the last row will be less than 2 inches
wide, add that width to the width of a full plank and divide by 2. Cut planks
in the first and last rows to this width.
Step 5: Cut the first row.
Depending on your layout, you may need to rip, or cut, the first
row of planks lengthwise. If using a power saw, cut with the finished side
down; if using a handsaw, cut with the finished side up. Use clamps to steady
the planks as you cut them.
Step 6: Leave an expansion gap.
Wedge
the space chips that come with your installation kit between the wall and the
planks to leave an expansion gap of 1/4 inch.
Step 7: Install the first row.
Install
the planks with the tongue side facing the wall (some manufacturers recommend
you cut off the tongue edge of planks that face walls). Connect one plank to
another by connecting the tongues and grooves. You may be able to snugly
connect the planks by hand, or you may need to use a pull bar from the
installation kit and a hammer to pull them together or a tapping block to tap
the joints together. Cut the last plank in the row to length (save the scrap if
it's at least 12 inches long).
Step 8: Install additional rows.
As you snap on new rows, stagger the seams at least 12 inches in
adjoining rows. You often can start a new row with the scrap from the plank you
cut to end the previous row.
Step 9: Install the last row.
You'll need to slide the
planks into position at an angle, then gently pry them into place with the pry
bar. Be sure you leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap between the last row and the
wall.
Step 10: Cut around door casings.
Don't
try to cut planks to fit around door casings. Instead, use the jamb saw to cut
the door casing about 1/16 inch above the height of the flooring, giving the
plank room to slide under the casing. Rest a piece of flooring with
underlayment on the floor and against the casing. Rest the jamb saw on top and
cut the casing to the desired height.
Step 11. Reinstall the trim.
After the planks are in place, reinstall the baseboard molding using the hammer and finishing nails. Then install shoe molding over the expansion joints and use transition strips to connect the laminate to adjoining surfaces, such as tile or carpet. Do not nail through the floor, just through the trim and wall.